Heading for Arncliffe in Littondale
It was Chris who, a few years ago, introduced me to the idea of walking from valley to valley. After almost thirty years of walking, scrambling and climbing up pointy peaks, I had asked the question, “Why”? She could have explained her walking preferences at length, but instead she went straight to the point – “You can visit a pub halfway round”. You can’t really argue with logic like that, which is how I started wandering with a purpose.
On Blackstone Edge
I’ve previously proclaimed my allegiance to gritstone edges and peat moors in this blog, and as a true Lancastrian you wouldn’t expect me to say anything else. The trouble is, I’ve been spoiled by years of walking and climbing in the Lake District, Snowdonia, Scottish Highlands and abroad, so the dubious pleasures of wading through knee-deep peat bogs are even more dubious than they were in my youth.
Cnicht, “The Welsh Matterhorn” (JB)
Sat at home in the middle of ‘normal’ UK October weather (dank, misty drizzle), it seems strange that two weeks ago we were walking the hills of Snowdonia wearing T-shirts. Yet, that’s exactly what happened, and I have the evidence! (Blogs #46 and #47) And we still had another day to go on Cnicht, sometimes known as the “Welsh Matterhorn”.
On the High Route from Ogwen to Capel Curig
“…..the can of cold cider in the camper fridge didn’t touch the sides on the way down”! (Blog #46 – Foel Fras and Drum in the Carneddau) Now, that’s the way to end a walk, a variation on the old ending “….and they all lived happily ever after”. Our day in the Carneddau had been a ‘biggy’, with a lot of height gain before reaching the high ground. Day 2 was set for something a bit kinder, so over a couple more ciders, plans were made.
Foel Fras from Llwytmor
Whichever way you look at it, the Carneddau range of mountains in North Wales is big – it is, in fact, the largest land-mass south of Scotland that is over 2500ft high (762 metres) in height. Although there are many fine mountains in England and the rest of Wales, there is nothing quite as wild (or perhaps intimidating) as the Carneddau, and I am a recent convert to these high, lonely mountains. The range includes seven out of the fifteen peaks in North Wales that are over 3000ft (914m), as well as a couple of major climbing crags.
Wide open spaces above Whitendale
If you like your spaces to be ‘wide open’ ones, you could do a lot worse than the Forest of Bowland, a tiny bit of wildness tucked away between Lancaster and the Yorkshire Dales. Go expecting trees and you will be disappointed, as it’s an ancient hunting forest. Instead, expect to find empty peat moors with isolated gritstone edges. It’s not particularly pretty (though it does have a wild grandeur) and there’s little drama. For me, though, these are the hills of home.
Raven Stones Edge above Greenfield Reservoir
Let’s face it, you either like walking on gritstone moors or you don’t – I do! I started walking in my mid-teens, on the gritstone moors of the Forest of Bowland, the nearest hills to where I lived. Perhaps the term ‘gritstone moors’ is a bit of a misnomer though, as most gritstone moors have more peat in evidence than gritstone, which makes this kind of walking an acquired taste. I’m a Lancashire lad, but I had never walked in the Saddleworth area, so a visit seemed long overdue.
Blencathra - Early morning – © Peter Johnson
It’s a question that I get asked a lot – “What’s your favourite mountain, then?” Blimey! My stock answer to get me off the hook is, ”The one I’m on at the moment”. Well, to start with, how do you chose between areas? The wilderness feel of the Highlands, the stark drama of Snowdonia, the quiet of Mid-Wales, the beauty of the Lakes or the cosy, welcoming feel of the Dales, just how do you choose between them? But, OK, if I’m pressed I’ve got to pick Blencathra.
The Riggindale Ridge, seen from Mardale Banks (JB)
A walk up and down the High Street might not seem to be the first choice for a mountain day, but lovers of the Lake District will soon put you right. On the eastern side of the Lake District National Park, a long high route over the mountains runs from Troutbeck near Windermere to Tirril near Penrith. It is mostly famous for being a route that the Romans used between their forts at Brocavum (Brougham) near Penrith and Galava at Ambleside. It became known as ‘High Street’.
Smearsett Scar with Pot Scar beyond (JB)
Until about ten years ago, my knowledge of walking in the Yorkshire Dales was limited to the Yorkshire Three Peaks (Y3P) Challenge route, and the paths to various holes in the ground that my potholing club had visited. However, there is far more to the Yorkshire Dales than just a challenge walk or the fixture list of a caving club, and over the last decade I have got to know the ‘Dales’ much more closely.
Smearsett Scar from near Stainforth (JB)
Approaching Smearsett from Little Stainforth (JB)
It still took me a long time to come across Smearsett, though with a height of a mere 363 metres the hill doesn’t exactly sell itself. There is a surprise view on the Stainforth to Helwith Bridge section of the B6479, though if you are driving it’s probably best to stick to piloting your vehicle. Smearsett is also quite prominent from the bits of the Y3P near to Horton in Ribblesdale – although small, the hill suddenly rears up like a wave breaking on a beach. Thousands must see it every year without having a clue what they are looking at.
The author at Smearsett – 2008
Pot Scar from Smearsett summit
The second trip – snowing again!
My first visit was in 2008, researching a route for Walking World – their database for the Dales is considerable, so finding a gap on the map that indicates a potential walking route is a rarity. Our first outing was just an excuse for a couple of hours walking in the snow – although the hill is small it catches quite a lot of ‘weather’. It looked interesting enough to return to, but the weather on the second trip was almost as wild – these small hills are often full of surprises.
* * *
Steam train on the Settle-Carlisle line near Stainforth (JB)
My photographer mate, John Bamber, has been visiting the Yorkshire Dales as long as I have, so it was good to find that Smearsett was a gap in his forty years experience. As there was little danger of the day becoming a high mountain epic, we were joined by Chris and Miv. Final member of the party was Border Collie ‘Mist’, who appears in this blog so frequently that she is thinking of starting her own. We had barely started out when we came across lurking photographers by the Stainforth railway bridge. Round here that means only one thing – a steam train!
The River Ribble on a quiet day…. (JB)
…. and on a more lively day
With the ‘steamer’ out of the way we carried on over the bridge across the River Ribble. The river was quietly behaving itself, though when the water level rises, the cascades 100 metres downstream become a raging torrent. After that it wasn’t long before we reached the summit of Smearsett. Fortunately things don’t end there – a long limestone ridge continues over the top of Pot Scar, before doubling back under the climber’s crag then finally heading towards the hamlet of Feizor.
The summit of Smearsett Scar, with Pen y Ghent in the distance (JB)
Summit of Pot Scar, with Smearsett behind
The climber’s crag of Pot Scar
On other visits, Feizor has always been quiet. Today the tea room was well busy, but we didn’t linger long, other than to get the ice creams in. Our return route took us on greenways to Stackhouse, and from there along the river path back to Stainforth.
'Elaine’s Tea Room' at Feizor
On the way to Stackhouse
The day was a great outing with good friends and good weather. In fact, we seem to have been blessed by good weather on most of our trips out this summer. To stop us getting too cocky, Chris, dog and I followed up Smearsett with a trip to Langdale a couple of days later – we have just finished drying the gear!
Stickle Tarn in Langdale – what a difference a couple of days can make!
Text and images © Paul Shorrock – Images tagged (JB) © John Bamber
Paul offers guided hillwalking in the UK through Hillcraft Guided Walking. He is also a freelance outdoor writer.
Hillcraft Guided Walking Website
Paul Shorrock - One Man's Mountains AKA One Pillock's Hillocks 