(Left click images to zoom in, use browser return arrow to go back)
Our “stravaiging” (see post #255) continued onwards from Glencoe, with a diversion over to Skye and the Cuillins (see post #252) followed by Torridon, but it was soon time for another bothy visit. The main contender was what is probably one of the best-appointed and most luxurious bothies in Scotland, the former youth hostel on the coast near Torridon, and known simply as Craig Bothy.
Craig Bothy is 4kms from Daibaig near Torridon and 8kms from Redpoint near Gairloch. At a distance of 18kms, ‘near Gairloch’ shouldn’t be taken too literally and the walk from Torridon to Daibaig isn’t exactly a short stroll, so it appears that the ‘youth’ of a bygone age were hardier walkers than those of today. All of which probably explains why Craig is no longer a youth hostel.
Mind you, neither Chris or I were much inclined to follow the classic but lengthy walking trip from Torridon to Redpoint (and beyond) via Craig, so a ‘creative’ use of the narrow roads was on the cards. ‘Plan A’ had been to drive to Daibaig and to walk the shorter distance to the bothy and to return the same way, but a look at the map indicated some steep bits – good old Google confirmed that part of the road was possibly the steepest section of public road in the UK.
I’m normally up for a motoring challenge, but the problem with driving a 3.5 tonne camper, 6 metres long and 2.2 metres wide, along roads not much wider than the van, is that many drivers today simply don’t have a clue how to drive. More importantly, many of them don’t appreciate the issues of driving a big, heavy vehicle on narrow roads, and whilst I was happy to ‘give it a go’ if the road was quiet, the prospect of reversing some distance for some numpty blocking the road didn’t appeal. Time for ‘Plan B’!
‘Plan B’ was simple – round from Torridon towards Gairloch, then along the narrow coastal road to Redpoint. This meant a longer walk in to the bothy with more height gain, but at a total of 16kms there and back, it was going to be quite do-able – coastal walks can often catch out unprepared hikers, who imagine that walking by the coast is going to be fairly flat, as in reality, the ups and downs of a coastal path soon add up to the equivalent of a decent mountain day.
Setting out from Redpoint, we had great views out to Skye, with the Cuillins the most obvious feature. Leaving farmland behind us, we passed the old fishing station and headed out on a thin path above the boulders. Then, as we gained a bit of height, the path settled down into something more path-like. Quite often the slope below us would roll straight down to the sea, and a casual trip or stumble could easily have developed into a roll down to the water – not a good idea!
In true coastal-path style, we ended up dropping down to stream crossings before gaining height again. The coastline is straight as an arrow on the approach to the outflow of the Craig River, so it was quite easy to guestimate how far we had to go. We turned the corner to head alongside the river, and the ground immediately became more lumpy and bumpy – before long, Chris decided she had put up with enough lumpy and bumpy and decided to take a break while I carried on to visit the bothy.
On the map, the bridge across Craig River leading to the bothy was so close that I thought I should try to persuade Chris to carry on, but in reality it seemed to take longer. When I finally arrived, I found a substantial building – I’m guessing that building materials and supplies probably came in by boat because it wouldn’t have been much fun carrying in cement, furniture, pans and a woodburning stove on either coastal path. The inside was as impressive as outside, with solid furniture and even a bed, true luxury! One of the most interesting features though is a Celtic mural painted on the wall by one of the previous hostel wardens.
I had a good wander around the building before heading back to Chris, who was sitting enjoying the warm weather. Out came the stove and brew kit, and we had our lunch sitting in the sun, before retracing our steps to Redpoint. We found a nearby parking spot for the camper, with great views out to sea, and as a final treat we watched the sun setting over Skye, accompanied with a wee dram – what a great way to end a day!
Text and images © Paul Shorrock, except the images tagged IM (Ibn Musa), NB (Nigel Brown) and PM (Peter Moore) which are taken from the Geograph Project and are reproduced under a Creative Commons Licence.
Looks a nice walk – might go and have a mosey at that myself sometime. I know what you mean about coastal walking – before we went to Dorset we had no idea how hard it could be – we soon found out! I think it’s definitely harder than a mountain day as I think it’s harder for your muscles to go up and down and up and down rather than just one lot of up and then down.
People were definitely fitter in general in the past though. You only have to read the many accounts of when people cycled in to somewhere like Langdale from Bradford area on a Friday after work. Wheeled their bike with camping gear up one of the passes to a high camp. Camped overnight and Sat night with hillwalking on the Saturday. Probably did another walk on the Sunday and then lugged their stuff back down to the valley on the bike and cycled home in time for work on Monday! Phew!
BTW – the Diabaig road is definitely not the steepest in the UK – Hardknott Pass is 1 in 3 in places – that has to be the steepest. I drove up that pass in Torridon and got stuck behind someone going so slow he ground to a halt. By then, he’d managed to overheat our poor hire car and I had to try to do a hill start – not enjoyable at that angle!
Well worth a look Carol – a trip from Torridon to Gairloch via the bothy would be a worthwhile outing..
Pingback: #257 – Shenavall Bothy in Wester Ross | Paul Shorrock – One Man's Mountains AKA One Pillock's Hillocks
Pingback: #262 – It’s that time of year again! | Paul Shorrock – One Man's Mountains AKA One Pillock's Hillocks
I visited Craig many, many years ago when it was still a YH. We stayed three nights. The warden was overjoyed when I offered to paint the entire ground floor to prepare the hostel for some upcoming anniversary. The wall with the Celtic mural was adorned with a rather garish, big, red marching figure holding a SYHA sign. It took three coats to cover it up. The warden doled out a round of scotch that night. Good times!
Otherwise, I recall collecting driftwood at the beach, really, really wet boots from the hike and a rather damp bunk room.
You can claim to be part of the fabric of the place Christoph. I also think that you deserved some kind of award for covering the ‘marching figure’ – that’s in addition to the whisky 🙂
I’m the guy who was the warden from 1987 to 1992, and I painted the mural on the wall and around the outside doors and windows
Thanks for that bit of history Shaun – that mural will be there for a while yet!
I stayed here in 1980 when it was a hostel. Came with a group of GCSE students for a field trip. Stayed a week and had the best time ever. Met some Dutch students in the hostel.
It’s a lovely spot Heather. Thanks for reading and for the comment 🙂